Context: The Epidermis
The Skin's Barrier
The skin is the largest organ in the body, acting as the barrier between the external environment and our own internal environment. In this way, it acts as an extension of the immune system because it helps to mediate the exchange between our bodies, and environmental stimuli like UV rays, topical substances, and even our bathing water.
The skin acts as a semipermeable membrane, allowing certain substances that are “compatible” with our skin’s makeup to penetrate it. Through a process called transdermal absorption, molecules of substances like lotion move through the layers of the skin.
The Lipophilic Layer
Because the outermost layer of the skin’s barrier (the stratus corneum of the epidermis) is a fat-filled, lipophilic (fat-loving) layer, it makes sense to use different forms of fat to penetrate that outermost layer. Substances like moisturizers/lotions move through this lipophilic layer and end up wedging themselves into any “empty spaces” within the surface of the epidermis, which is how they seal in moisture.
Meanwhile, it stands to reason that the skin also absorbs harmful lipophilic substances that are smaller than moisturizer molecules (that don’t get stuck in the lipophilic layer). And if they meet the skin’s criteria regarding pH, they do slip past the epidermis, into the dermis. Many things, like poison oak, pollen, chlorine, and heavy metals (which form lipophilic compounds), fit this criteria. And immune-related issues (like eczema and psoriasis) weaken the integrity of the skin barrier, resulting in even more contaminants passing through.
pH and the Microbiome
The skin’s surface possesses a microbiome, and is slightly acidic in nature - typically below a pH of 5 (though the exact pH depends on where you’re looking on the body). This low pH is what the skin needs in order for its healthy bacteria to remain attached to the skin's surface. Substances that are increasingly alkaline remove the skin’s healthy bacteria, which is ultimately damaging to your immune health.
Fun fact: Special bacteria exist within the dermis as well - but only in locations that are exposed to the surface (within hair follicles and sweat/oil glands).
Skincare at its core is actually really simple, and only requires a few core items/practices. The most important thing to keep going back to is the epidermis, and it’s core requirements:
- To pay credence to its lipophilic physiology (using products that easily absorb into the skin)
- To retain a healthy microbiome (retaining moisture + a lower pH)
Both of these are required in order to maintain a healthy barrier between yourself, and the environment - alongside maintaining general hydration and wellbeing. 💦
**Note: When trying new products, please remember to try them on a small area of skin (ex. inner wrist or elbow) first to check for allergies! (So many recipes out there for skin and hair care utilize coconut oil, but I learned through trial and error that my skin hates it.)
Cleansing
Your first line of defense when it comes to cleansing is luke warm water and a gentle cotton wash cloth. If your skin is generally healthy, that should be all you need outside of instances of breakouts or rashes. But in your daily life, if you really do require a good clean after exercise, work, etc…it really doesn’t need to be too complicated!
You’ll notice that nature provides many versions of what I consider to be the "anti-" class of plants/animal products. These are natural substances that inherently possess antimicrobial, antibacterial, antifungal, etc. properties.
The recipe I provided on the right is an example of a 2 (or 3 if you choose to add extra probiotics) ingredient cleanser made of just raw honey and aloe gel. Both of those substances are part of the "anti" family, are microbiome friendly, and are also extremely enriching for the skin’s cells.
Raw honey, depending on its quality, also contains probiotics! So the probiotic capsules are only necessary if you just want to be 100% sure that you're skin bacteria is getting some love. Make sure to mix everything well (the honey and aloe especially), but don't be too hard pressed about whether the probiotics (if you choose to use them) don't dissolve completely.
**You can simplify the cleanser recipe even further, and just use some aloe/warm water on a washcloth. ✨
**Raw honey and aloe vera can also be used as a mask, both together or separately.
Moisturizing
One important aspect of skin care is supporting the skin barrier through emollient moisturization. And you really only need to choose one (or cycle through some, if you like variety).
When you use a moisturizer on your skin, it needs to work well with the skin’s lipophilic nature. This is why lotions, creams, oils, etc. are all fat-based. This property makes most moisturizers emollient - meaning, they fill in any gaps between cells and help to seal off the skin from the external environment. They aren’t as long lasting as a wax when it comes to the sealing effect, but they provide adequate protection and moisturization at the same time.
*Waxes can also be used to seal in moisture, but they don’t penetrate that lipid layer or contribute moisture themselves (which is why you see them infused with other ingredients/some form of oil!).
Listed on the left are some of the most common moisturizing substances you will run into today, and some ideas for skin-friendly infusions. 🌸
Fun Fact: You can also use these natural moisturizers as a form of chapstick, covering both skin and lip maintenance.
Jojoba
Jojoba oil is one of the safest oils, when it comes to potential skin reactions. It’s pH is skin-perfect, light, and antioxidant-rich. Jojoba mimics the skin’s sebum, which makes it one of the best-absorbing plant-based oils. I like to use jojoba as a base for all things DIY: salves, oils, infusions, etc. Outside of that, I generally treat jojoba oil as a lotion replacement, using it also on my children, and my husband who has sensitive skin.
Beef tallow
Beef tallow also contains antioxidants and healthy fats, though they are different than those in jojoba. The fatty acids in tallow help keep the skin pH/moisture balanced, elastic, and inflammation free. I use it almost exclusively as a face moisturizer and medicinal for wound healing/scarring (it’s very concentrated, and also costs more). Tallow is part of the 1-2 punch that helps me spot treat my daughter’s mini eczema breakouts (though they don’t happen often), and is bio-identical to our skin's sebum.
Addressing Breakouts
Preventative
If you know you’re prone to breakouts, you may want to keep your face extra clean. This means using that cleanser I mentioned earlier, or spraying lightly with hypochlorous acid (my absolute favorite discovery within the last several years) before moisturizing.
Hypochlorous acid (HOCl) is the substance our white blood cells make in order to kill contaminants, and it can be used as a completely nontoxic and gentle face cleanser - and also as surface cleaner, a diaper rash treatment, etc. HOCl is the first part of that 1-2 punch that I use to treat my daughter’s occasional eczema!
Skin health is related to our system’s health, so if our stress levels, hormones, diet, or activity level are out of whack - then your skin might be as well. If you know that you’re prone to skin-related issues, my first piece of advice as a not-doctor would be to assess whether there are any underlying issues going on causing your skin problems. This section focuses solely on skin-related information, and things like acne caused by hormone imbalance need to be addressed holistically.
Active
If you’re battling a breakout, and want to do more than gently cleanse, you can make a gentle face scrub using ingredients that naturally contain two acne-fighting hard hitters: alpha hydroxy acid and beta hydroxy acid. To the right is a recipe that contains raw honey and cane sugar. Raw honey, alongside the benefits I mentioned previously, is also a natural source of glycolic acid. Meanwhile, cane sugar is a natural source of beta hydroxy acid and is also an exfolient.
While it may be tempting to pick at acne, it’s better to keep up with the cleansing - moisturizing ritual - and to keep your skin as clean and balanced as you can throughout the day - in order to address acne. Conditions like eczema require holistic consideration, and while they will benefit from the information in this blog - it helps to figure out what actually triggers the skin conditions!
Sun Care
Sun care is important to consider, making sure that you get enough, while not also putting yourself at undue risk for sunburn. We should all shoot for around 20 minutes of full sun exposure each day, but remaining in the direct sun for long period of time increases the oxidative stress in your skin cells.
There are many other theories being thrown around regarding whether we need to protect ourselves from uv radiation at all (as long as it's not being filtered through a window and therefore altered in its composition, for example).
But I'm erring on the side of caution, and opting to talk about mineral-based sunscreen and tallow for times when you know you are going to get more direct sun than your system is typically used to absorbing.
Mineral-based sunscreens typically utilize zinc oxide, or titanium dioxide. They don't penetrate the skin, and work to reflect uv rays away from your body. They are more environmentally considerate, and are a good option if you're going out and about for long hours.
Tallow-based sunscreens operate on the claim that tallow protects your skin from uv rays. There isn't much in the way of research on this claim in particular, but most marketed tallow-based sunscreens also contain zinc oxide, or some other mineral.
Shampoo + Bodywash
Depending on your activity levels, and the type of activity you do within a day, you may or may not need to actively wash/scrub your hair and body. Making sure that you find this balance is key in keeping your body healthy, preventing your scalp/skin from constantly losing their own oil/moisture. I like to stick to the rule of thumb of washing my hair at least one time a week, but depending on the season and what I'm doing in my life, sometimes I'll find myself washing my hair every day.
Washing your body and hair doesn't have to be over complicated, but it follows similar guidelines as previously discussed. Ideally using some form of probiotic and lower pH product would be the goal. Natural products that meet this criteria include yucca root/soap nuts (naural lather) and aloe Vera/sea kelp/apple cider vinegar (though not sudsy). There are also other "pre made" options that meet the criteria using minimal ingredients.
Extra Tips:
1. Ingredients like sea kelp, raw honey, apple cider vinegar, and other raw or whole food items (including things like soap nuts) are green flags.
2. Always moisturize after a shower.
3. Be gentle with your skin if you use luffas or body sponges.
4. Use jojoba oil as a light, leave in conditioner while your hair is still damp.
Thank you for joining me in this discussion on skin care - feel free to use the contact form below if you have any questions!
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